October 5, 2009

Denmark | Greenland

A Sea Change in Greenland

By Thiago Da Costa

The cool new view from the world’s biggest island.

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Hands up if you noticed the world’s largest island inching one more step towards independence last June? Or that same island ushering in its first change of government in 30 years? Well, chances are, you’ll soon be hearing a lot more about Greenland as the globe gears up to try and reach a consensus on combating climate change at United Nations talks in Copenhagen this December.

Still officially part of the Danish realm, Greenland has quietly inaugurated its new era of self-governance while its most famous (read: only famous) attraction is under more scrutiny than ever: the Ilulissat Icefjord, which produces 20 million tons of ice each day, has become something of a touchstone for understanding climate change (Greenland’s glaciers contain so much fresh water that were they to melt, the world’s sea levels could rise by 23 feet).

But while parts of the world may be sinking, Greenland (81 percent of which is covered with ice) is actually rising. Greenlanders can now grow broccoli for the first time. Sheep farming is easier. And a new wave of tourism is finally taking root. On a recent trip, globorati got to crisscross Greenland (an odyssey in itself, since there are no roads between cities), and explore the semi-autonomous nation that is three times the size of Texas.

Things we never knew about Greenland:

1) The capital of Nuuk claims to be the official address for Santa Claus. Letters from good boys and girls are kept in a gigantic transparent mailbox by the harbor. (Children are reminded to include a return address.)

2) Greenland does locavore like nowhere else on earth. Take the small town of Kangerlussuaq, home to the country’s busiest airport, as well as one of the region’s most spectacular destination dining experiences: Restaurant Rowing Club is a simple corrugated metal shack with ashtrays fashioned from emptied missile cases (left behind by the Americans when the place was an army base). And you can enjoy greenhouse-grown greens, reindeer medallion and fresh-caught halibut in front of an idyllically deserted lake. Hey, it was good enough for Harrison Ford, who, according to the owner, has been known to stop off here several times in his private jet just for the potato soup.

3) If Greenland is spiritually a part of Scandinavia (while physiographically a part of North America), its heaven is in Ilulissat. Most visitors hit the country’s top tourist destination to experience the otherworldly sights (and sounds) of its celebrated icefjord that produces more icebergs than anywhere else on earth except Antarctica. Resembling a frozen river, this World Heritage site is where the ice meets the liquid ocean and huge chunks of ice break off to form icebergs. Huge as in taller than a 10-story building or rather, as my guide pointed out, 700 feet high since on average the icebergs are six times bigger under the water line.

You’ll never bore from iceberg spotting but if you need to thaw out, you’ve always got Hotel Arctic. The hands-down plushest hotel in Greenland, the newly expanded property is perched high on a hill and affords the same epic views. Only difference being is you can sit back with a plate of smoked trout ravioli and behold the place where icebergs are born.