June 1, 2007

Africa & Mideast | South Africa | Tulbagh

A Taste of Tulbagh

By Nicole Cotroneo

Two young bachelors lead a burgeoning wine region to world-class recognition.

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Just over a decade ago, South Africa’s Tulbagh Valley meant little to the wine world. At best it was known for unimpressive whites and a devastating 1969 earthquake that decimated numerous historic buildings. But all that has changed. With several award-winning wine estates and an official wine route, Tulbagh is now stealing the limelight from such heavyweight regions as Stellenbosch and Paarl in the Cape Winelands. Just 75 miles northeast of Cape Town, Tulbagh is a quilt of vineyards, orchards and olive groves — all ventilated by cool Mediterranean-like breezes. Winemakers at Twee Jonge Gezellen (that’s “two young bachelors” in Dutch) are turning handpicked grapes into illustrious sparkling wine by the traditional Champagne method. Saronsberg, meanwhile, has built a stunning contemporary tasting room and cellar that houses a substantial collection of South African art. Beyond the vines, Tulbagh has reconstructed its collection of Cape Dutch architecture — the largest in the country — and has attracted a flock of international chefs, including Colin Pielow. His eponymous restaurant is located at the De Oude Herberg, a Portfolio Collection guest house where you can savor those valley breezes — along with a baked tomato, basil and mozzarella cheese tart, on the shaded courtyard terrace.