November 12, 2008

EUROPE | AUSTRIA

An Ode to Austrian Eating

By Nicole Cotroneo

Checked Spain off your list of gastronomic pilgrimages? Meet Europe’s next culinary capital.

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If you thought the heights of Austrian cuisine peaked at wiener schnitzel, we have some very good news. While the world was watching a European culinary renaissance take shape in countries such as Spain and England, young ambitious chefs in Austria have been whipping up some world-class gastronomy — in some of the unlikeliest places, too.

In the country’s southernmost (and sunniest) province of Carinthia, new restaurant Schlossstern (no, that triple-s is not a typo) has done the near impossible: within five months of opening, it earned its first Michelin star. The culinary showpiece of Schloss Velden — the first in the rapidly expanding portfolio of Capella hotels — Schlossstern extends outdoors to a balcony overlooking Lake Worth, the warmest and largest alpine lake in Europe.

Banish any thoughts of wiener schnitzel here. On a recent visit, we tucked into beech-smoked beef marrow with espresso and truffles as part of a tasting menu by Chef Silvio Nikol (recently named “Newcomer of the Year” by Austria’s most popular food mag). While some of his Michelin compatriots seem to experiment for shock value, Nikol’s flavor profiles are nothing short of transcendent. It leads one to believe that the best of new Austrian cuisine has nothing to do with territorial boundaries at all. Case in point: ricotta-ginger soufflé over grapefruit ragout with a touch of lavender.

But it’s Schlossstern’s after-dinner truffle cart that will put you right over the edge. (The cheery chocolatier will pack you a box to go. Take two salted caramel truffles and call us in the morning.) Fortunately, if you’re staying at Schloss Velden, it’s easy — and quite pleasurable even — to pay penance for your gluttony: Take the hotel’s bicycles for a spin through the surrounding town of Velden, a popular resort for the German-speaking jetset.

Come lunchtime, you’ll want to peddle to nearby farm-restaurant Kakl. It is among southern Austria’s finest buschenschanken — farms that can serve the public only what they produce. Think: a wooden platter heaped with myriad meats and sausages, homemade bread and award-winning most (an alcoholic fruit drink).

But if you want to talk fermented fruit, you can’t forget Austrian wine. You’ll find some of the best reds produced in the Burgenland, just one hour south of Vienna. The regional capital is Eisenstadt, once home to composer Haydn, who spent 40 years here in the service of the Esterhazys, a noble Hungarian family. The grand Esterhazy Palace still hosts concerts in its beautifully frescoed Haydn Hall. Throughout next year, Eisenstadt will commemorate the 200th anniversary of Haydn’s death with special performances and exhibits.

A ten-minute drive from Eisenstadt is the village of Schuetzen, where you’ll probably think you’ve taken a wrong turn in your efforts to find Relais and Chateaux charmer Taubenkobel. Squeezed into a residential street, Taubenkobel is a tiny and stylish hotel built around an idyllic lily pad pond that doubles as a swimming pool (pictured). There’s also a Michelin two-star restaurant — one of only four in the entire country — helmed by owner and chef Walter Eselbock (whose food is pictured). Considering Austria doesn’t have any three-star establishments (yet), this is as good as it gets. Until, of course, Velden snags that second star.