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With its Adriatic climate, lavender- and olive-producing terrain, and fervent dedication to all things food and wine, Croatia’s Istrian peninsula reminds many visitors of Italy — which is just fine with the locals. Though close to 90 percent of the peninsula is Croatian, small parts also belong to Italy (and Slovenia), and the connection between the neighbors runs deep. Road signs are in both Italian and Croatian, and the area is more easily accessed by ferry service from Italy than from other parts of Croatia. On a clear day, you can even see Venice from coastal towns like Umag.
Moving out from under the shadow of its more famous neighbor, Istria’s culinary scene has started to emerge as a distinct force in its own right. The number of high-quality olive oil and wine producers is on the rise — standouts include high-end Meneghetti for both wine and oil, and Ipsa for its popular extra virgin blends (it’s also one of the few places where you can learn how to properly taste olive oil.) Vineyards like Roxanich and Piquentum are making waves with local varietals like Malvasia and Teran.
Most noted, though, are Istria’s truffles, which are considered more fragrant — and are less expensive — than those from Alba or Piedmont. (Italian foodies even drive over the border to stock up.) In 1999, restaurateur Giancarlo Zigante unearthed a 2.14 pound white truffle here, which is now listed in The Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s largest. Since then, the gourmet mushroom has become something of a regional calling card, with the fall white truffle season celebrated in grand fashion.
On Sundays this October, the interior town of Livade will host Tuberfest, a celebration featuring truffle auctions, search demonstrations, product fairs and truffle “beauty” awards. On November 6 and 7, the party heads to Truffle Weekend in Buzet, the “City of Truffles,” located along the Mirna River. Buzet usually kicks off the whole season in September with the cooking of a giant, 2,000-egg frittata — topped with 22 pounds of truffles, of course.
