July 6, 2009

ASIA | LAOS | LUANG PRABANG

Lazy Days in Luang Prabang

By Doug Black

Amanresorts turns a provincial hospital into one of Southeast Asia's most seductive resorts.

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Historically, Luang Prabang is a town where life moves as leisurely as the Mekong River that runs through it. But now the smelling salts are out: there’s a new batch of luxury lodgings in the Laotian city, and the rest of the world is taking notice. (Luang Prabang even nabbed a spot on globorati’s Dreamlist list this year.)

With its first international rail link just open this year, the landlocked nation is prepping for a swell of both tourists and goods (perhaps the lauded and limitedly exported Beer Lao will finally make it out the country). It’s good timing, too: Amanresorts recently soft-opened what may be their most off-beat property yet — a refurbished provincial hospital.

Don’t expect to see bedpans and Jell-O at this ward: the five-star Amantaka is comprised of 15 French colonial buildings — nine of which are heritage protected by UNESCO — that surround a courtyard and pool (pictured), shaded by mango trees and oversized umbrellas. The property’s 24 spacious suites feature 16-foot ceilings and are accessed through louvered doors on the courtyard.

After Amantaka’s grand opening on August 1, guests can do private lessons at the yoga studio or a wellness regimen at the spa. There will also be an in-house library, boutique and art gallery with handicrafts from local artists and Hill tribe communities. Or, if you want to go off-campus, Amantaka’s central location in the pedestrian-friendly town gives immediate access to the legendary Night Market, 32 historic temples and more pagodas and stupas than you can shake your Buddhist prayer beads at.

Still, if you aspire to taste life like the locals, you need to take to the water. Situated on the convergence of the Mekong and the Nam Khan, Luang Prabang’s lifeblood is its rivers. And now you can navigate them in style: the chic Villa Maly — a former royal palace turned hotel last year — has just introduced the Nava Mekong. Sailing twice daily, the Nava is the very first dinner cruise offered in Luang Prabang.

A classic Laotian riverboat, the Nava was widened to accommodate 10 tables that seat up to 40 guests. The boat cruises the rivers’ coffee-colored waters to Pak Ou Caves (home to more than 5000 Buddha statues) and stops at a traditional village for dinner and music. You’ll feast on plenty of Laotian specialties, like fried ginger pork and chicken soup with coconut milk. And if you play your cards right, you might even find yourself with an elusive Beer Lao.