October 24, 2008

EUROPE | ENGLAND | LONDON

On Her Majesty’s Secret Service

By Mark Jolly

London’s latest luxury lodging wants you to know about its shady past.

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London’s former home of espionage is about to be trumpeted, with regal-like fanfare, from the rooftops of Westminster. Built in 1884 in the shadows of Downing Street and the Ministry of Defence (sic), Whitehall Court served as HQ for the British Secret Service during World War I. Come November 1, however, the chateau-style Victorian landmark (pictured) will be unveiled as the Royal Horseguards, the flagship property for luxury hotel group, Guoman.

If truth be told, the Royal Horseguards was already known by the same name under Thistle Hotels, London’s largest mid-market business chain. But now, with a $30 million overhaul, the 280-room hotel has been poshed up to five-star status and rebranded under the Guoman moniker (Thistle’s upscale sister). You won’t see the name “Thistle” anywhere, but then this is part of a concerted effort to develop a portfolio of six historic hotels in the British capital and convert them into modern classics. Already revamped are the 1865-built Charing Cross and the Cumberland (which, purportedly, first introduced England to the concept of en-suite bathrooms and telephones in every room). Next up is the pre-Olympics makeover of the 800-room Tower Hotel (next to Tower Bridge).

Meanwhile, the refurb at the Royal Horseguards introduces all the requisite in-room tech (iPod docking stations, plasma TVs and custom-designed laptop safes), but also shows off the building’s extraordinary history (former residents also include HG Wells and George Bernard Shaw, not to mention both the US and Russian embassies). Next door is One Whitehall Place, former home of the National Liberal Club (and regular watering hole of Sir Winston Churchill). Today it’s part of the hotel and remains one of the grandest clubhouses in central London — with a billiards room, smoking room, reading room, and a riverside terrace overlooking the Thames. Oh yes, and you’ll still find the bar frequented by Members of Parliament, sneaking in for a quick session between sessions.