May 6, 2008

Europe | Turkey | Istanbul

Sultan of Swing

By Will Hide

W Hotels finally conquers Europe — plus a bit of Asia.

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What’s spanking-new, has Marc Jacobs as a next-door neighbour, Jean-Georges in-house and views of Asia from the top floor? Answer: W Istanbul, Starwood’s first toe-dip into European waters with its big-boutique brand. Taking up an entire block of remodeled townhouses built in the 1870’s, the hotel officially opens today, and is already sparking change in the revitalized neighborhood of Besiktas. Just within the past week, a clutch of upscale stores — including Jimmy Choo, Lanvin, Chloé, Vertu and Bottega Veneta, as well as Mr. Jacob’s shop — have opened right outside the hotel.

A five-minute stroll to the banks of the Bosphorus (the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque are just a ferry-ride across the bay), the 134-room W has brought a welcome shot of glamour to the city’s hotel scene — which this summer will be joined by a Park Hyatt and a second Four Seasons.

During my visit to the hotel (which soft-opened in April), there were certainly several teething problems (note to waitstaff: if you insist on memorizing a food order, it’s good to get at least 50% of it correct). As expected, though, the design is not short on seduction — or overstatement. With a choice of guestrooms from Fabulous to Mega to the Extreme Wow suite, you can opt for a private patio, outdoor cabana and an Ottoman-style Jacuzzi.

At Sip you can lounge with young Istanbullus amid latticed mirrors and wall-framed kaftans, before eating at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s latest outpost of Spice Market, which is all leathers and silks and low-gold lighting. It’s hip, moody and dramatic, and you’d best get used to it: the hotel’s hallways are so dark you practically need a flash light.