October 25, 2007

Europe | England | London

The L’eau Down From London

By Nicole Cotroneo

How Claridge's turned on the water — and became "the Kilimanjaro of decadence."

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So there you are dining at Claridge’s, one of the grand dame hotels of London’s Mayfair, when the waiter recommends a bottle that’s “crisp, slightly sweet, with a hint of citrus.” Only he’s not describing the wine; it’s a selection from Claridge’s new high-end bottled water list. No, we’re not talking about the stuff you showered in this morning. We’re talking about 30 international brands of H20, each claiming a unique flavor profile: there’s Cloud Juice, rainwater captured on Tasmania’s pristine King Island; Hawaiian MaHaLo seawater drawn from 3,000 feet beneath the Pacific’s surface; and Italian Fiuggi, favored by the Vatican. The list’s biggest splurge is award-winning 420 Volcanic from New Zealand. At just over $100 per liter, it promises to have a “pleasant smooth sensation on the palate.”

Though Claridge’s water menu has been hailed as “the Kilimanjaro of London’s decadence,” and thrown tree-huggers into a tizzy, it’s hardly out of place at a hotel that offers guests a Bentley Flying Spur and $2,000-per-night suites furnished by David Linley, the Queen’s nephew. Nor is Claridge’s the only venue endorsing bottled water’s vogue: Tomorrow, New York water fiends can get their fill at a “water tasting” on Pier 94. The event is part of Cook, Eat, Drink, Live, a two-day culinary extravaganza with a ticket price of $625-a-head.